DSLR Tips: Night Photography
by admin on Monday, February 1st, 2010 | 25 Comments
Full guide at: www.dslrtips.com How to take successful photos at night, by Gordon Laing, Editor of www.dslrtips.com
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Really useful stuff man, cheers.
this is so awesome, you are a great teacher….I watched many of your reviews on DSLR’s since I am shopping for one. I am waiting until June since someone told me this spring Nikon and Canon are coming out with some new models. I read that a Nikon D900 will be introduced and I was wondering if you know anything about that?
as usual thanks alot! looking forward to future videos.
A cheap tripod is next to useless, so I’d ever save for a decent one like a manfrotto, or get a gorillapod instead. If it’s any consolation, I often balance the camera on walls for long exposures – and that’s free of charge! See the accessories section in the best buys at cameralabs . com.
do u have a tripod brand thats fairly inexpensive?
Thanks! Yep, we have discussions for beginners and advanaced photographers in the forums at our sister site cameralabs . com !
Sir, my hat is of to you. You are about the only worthwhile photo experience. Your videos are helpful and I use them often for my students assignments.
Do you have an area where you address advanced photogs?
This was discussed a few comments below. It would work in some situations, but not for the example shown here. You’d still be relying on the camera’s metering, and even with +2EV compensation the image turned out too dark – that’s why I used manual to achieve the desired brightness.
I do it a lot easier: Put your camera in A-mode, choose and Aperture of F8. Put the camera on a tripod and use the timer or cable release. The advantages are clear: in A mode the camera will compensate for the small aperture (F8) and will give a long exposure, using a small aperture (F8) the picture will look sharper then fully open.
depth of field at night works the same as during the day, except that when you choose bigger f-numbers, be aware your expsoure can get quite long. Feel free to ask any Qs in the dslrtips section at the cameralabs . com forum.
How do you minimize glare around lights at night to get a sharp shot of light sources? Also, what is the best way to deal with depth of field at night?
What should I set the ISO at when I am doing Night Photography with long exposures?
I get it..
but…. not just sharper. If someone attempts to shoot something like night city view from hill or similar scene with F3.5 (on a DSLR), the depth of field would be too small. On compact P&S nothing matters and even F2.8 would be enough
Please read some of the older comments as this has been addressed many many times for this tutorial. I agree an aperture of f5.6 or f8 would be sharper, but in this example, would have resulted in an exposure of more than 30 seconds, thereby requiring bulb mode and a cable release. These tutorials are designed for complete beginners, so I keep them simple.
Using lowest F number cannot be recommended, because all lenses are sharpest stopped down a bit. Normally around F7.1-F8 with zoom lenses.. so get tripod and leave F7.1 and some 4seconds @ lowest ISO possible.
If hand-held, then only SR/IS/VR etc can help + hi iso like 3200….
Great vid Cameralabs, I like the fact you’re using a Canon, it makes it easier for me! I’ve got a XTi and absolutely love it! Your night photos look great and sound/voice is just fine with me. Yet you do sound like the gecko from Geico
when u speak ur last word sounds idk how to explain it, but each time u finish a sentence it sounds like…high then low, idk how to explain but thnx sooo much
DD
plisss help better camera its canon eos 500 d or canon 30 d???
Erm, that’s a pretty normal English accent! How exactly would you like me to speak?!
I like it.
Sounds like propper english.
good video but could you not speak in such a fashion? you sound like a news caster or some flight attendant
thanks this video is very helpful for amateurs like me
@cameralabs I agree. It is nice to have a choice. I often leave my camera in auto and see nothing wrong with it. It depends on the situation. If you have a certain amount of time to prepare, then choose a more manual setting and think about how to best set your camera up for the shooting conditions and the result you want. But if you have no time to prepare then auto is better then manual. Like I said, it depends on the situation.
Yep, they’re all my own photos. I recommend switching back to auto so your camera is ready for spontaneous opportunities. I also strongly believe there’s nothing wrong in using a DSLR in Auto, as you still enjoy the benefits of fast response, low noise and interchangeable lenses. These are things you don’t get on a point and shoot.
Nice video! Did you do the ones of Vegas?
Just one question…
Why switch your camera back to fully auto??yeh it can be good for somthings but (my opinion is) what’s the point in spending hundreds of pounds on a dslr if people are not gonna use it to it’s full potential? When you can just go to your jessops or even Argos and get a perfectly good point and shoot for the third of the price?
Any thanks again for uploading!